Look, I have blown pay packets on shiny shears that promised the world, only to shred a client fringe because the blade was wrong for the job. The steel matters, sure, but the grind and the edge profile decide whether your scissors glide, bite, or flat out push hair away. This is the play-by-play guide I wish someone handed me after my first Melbourne Cup week on the floor.

Photo: David Cano Soriano via Unsplash

Blade anatomy crash course

• Edge profile: The angle and finish on the cutting edge (bevel, semi-convex, convex).
• Blade spine: Slim versus sword ridge changes stability and weight.
• Inner blade face: Hollow-ground convex blades create the buttery glide; flat faces bite harder for control.
• Micro serrations: Tiny grooves etched into one blade to grip hair during blunt work.
• Teeth: Texturising or thinning blades remove weight rather than cut a clean line.

Keep those elements in mind as you match blades to your service mix.

Bevel edge (standard edge)

• What it is: A 45 degree grind with tiny serrations along one blade. Common on German-made scissors.
• Where it shines: Blunt bobs, men’s scissor-over-comb, apprentice practice, cutting wigs and extensions.
• Why stylists rate it: Durable, low fuss and budget friendly. The serrations grip coarse or slippery hair so your sections stay put.
• Watch-outs: Draggy for slide cutting and channel work. If you try to slice through dry curls you will hear them protesting.
• Brands to sample: Jaguar White Line, Yasaka bevel ranges, Mina apprentice kits.

Semi-convex edge

• What it is: Halfway house between bevel and convex; slightly rounded edge with a micro bevel.
• Where it shines: Busy all-rounders who jump from blunt lobs to soft layering. Great for stylists stepping up from training shears.
• Why stylists rate it: Sharper feel without the fragility of a full convex. Easier and cheaper to service.
• Watch-outs: Not quite as silky for heavy dry cutting or precision point work. You will still feel some resistance on thicker sections.
• Brands to sample: Joewell Classic Pro, Kasho Design Master, Mina Sakura Pro.

Convex edge (Japanese edge)

• What it is: Rounded outer blade with a hollow inner face, finished to a razor polish. Requires hand grinding.
• Where it shines: Dry cutting, slicing, point cutting, precision fringe detailing, curly hairscaping.
• Why stylists rate it: Glides through hair with minimal pressure, reducing hand fatigue on long shifts. Lets you feather and slide without chewing.
• Watch-outs: Delicate. Drop them once and you will feel a burr. Only trust accredited convex sharpeners and oil them nightly.
• Brands to sample: Hikari E Series, Kasho Green Series, Juntetsu Premium, Mizutani Acro Type Z.

Sword blade (sword convex)

• What it is: A convex edge with a raised ridge along the spine (think katana). Adds stiffness without bulk.
• Where it shines: Power cutting on thick hair, blunt lines in long bobs, men’s scissor-over-comb when you want a bitey tip.
• Why stylists rate it: Feels stable on longer 6.5-7 inch blades. The extra backbone stops the tip from flexing when you carve strong outlines.
• Watch-outs: Slightly heavier. If you have smaller hands or existing wrist niggles, test the balance before you buy.
• Brands to sample: Kasho Millennium Sword, Joewell Sword, Kamisori Sword.

Micro-serrated edge

• What it is: Tiny grooves etched along one blade (usually the stationary blade).
• Where it shines: Teaching apprentices tension control, tackling slippery fringes, cutting synthetic hair for fashion work.
• Why stylists rate it: Stops hair sliding so you can move slower without losing your section. Brilliant when cutting wigs for photoshoots.
• Watch-outs: Serrations snag during slide cutting or dry slicing. Keep a separate pair for those techniques.

Texturising and thinning blades

Pro tip: Look for polished, v-notched teeth. Cheaper serrated teeth leave tramlines that you will spend the afternoon correcting.

Pairing blades with services

How to test a blade before you buy

1. Drop test the tension: Hold handles at 90 degrees, lift the thumb ring and let it fall. It should close two thirds smoothly.
2. Slice a dry section: Ask the distributor for a dry strand test. Convex blades should glide; bevel should grip.
3. Check tip alignment: Close the blades slowly. The tips must meet without crossing or leaving daylight.
4. Feel the weight: Simulate scissor-over-comb and point cutting angles. Your shoulder should stay relaxed.
5. Ask about servicing: Who sharpens it locally? Do they offer loan pairs while yours are out?

Maintenance cheat sheet by blade type

• Bevel & micro-serrated: Wipe with alcohol, dry, and oil nightly. Sharpen every 6-8 months, sooner if you cut lots of blunt bobs.
• Semi-convex: Same daily care, plus insist on sharpeners who understand hybrid edges (waterstone finish, no belt sanding).
• Convex & sword: Oil religiously, store in padded cases, and budget $120-$180 for a specialist sharpen once or twice a year.
• Texturising teeth: Brush out hair between clients to stop residue from clogging the teeth and altering the bite.

Myth busting

• “Convex blades are only for master stylists.” Not true. They just need respect. If you are ready to invest in better technique, start with an entry convex and follow the care routine.
• “Bevel blades are outdated.” Tell that to every barber smashing clean scissor-over-comb fades. They are workhorses when paired with the right services.
• “Micro-serrated scissors are cheap junk.” Poorly made ones, sure. Quality serrated shears (Joewell, Jaguar) are brilliant teaching tools.

Ready to build your blade lineup?

List the top five services you book each week, note any hand or wrist pain, and set a realistic budget (including sharpening). Send that snapshot through our contact form and we will map out a blade combo that keeps your clients raving and your hands happy. Get tailored advice here.

Photo: David Cano Soriano via Unsplash