Look, nothing ruins a fresh cut faster than overcooked texture lines or a chunk taken out of a fringe. Texturising shears are magic when you match the teeth to the job and work with intent. After a decade of wrangling Brissy humidity, Melbourne Cup rushes, and beach brides in Byron, this is the playbook I hand every stylist who wants airy movement without fluffy chaos.
Photo: Amr Taha via Unsplash
Tooth counts decoded
| Teeth | % removed (approx.) | Salon sweet spot | Aussie scenario |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40-46 thinners | 10-15% | Fringe dusting, fine hair detailing | Floating a soft micro fringe after a Sydney balayage session |
| 30-35 blenders | 20-25% | Everyday blending, long layer refinement | Knocking out that harsh shelf on a Gold Coast lived-in shag |
| 20-24 texture shears | 30-35% | Medium-thick hair debulking | Removing internal weight from Perth blowout clients before round brushing |
| 12-16 chunkers | 40%+ | Rapid bulk removal, curls, barber fades | Carving channels in dense Darwin curls or erasing fade steps |
Rule of thumb: More teeth = softer finish. Fewer teeth = heavy lift. If you are unsure, start light and build up.
Build a two-shear toolkit
- Primary blender (30-35 tooth): Lives in your hand for everyday refinement, blending shag layers, refining top-of-fade shadows.
- Power chunker (14-16 tooth): Only comes out when the section is screaming with weight—think thick lobs, curly halos, or heavy back-of-bob ridges.
- Optional extras: 42 tooth fine thinner for apprentices and detail work, double-sided barber thinner when you need speed.
Technique playbook
1. Slide-and-glide softening
- Elevate the section to 45 degrees.
- Enter mid-shaft with the teeth leading, close lightly, and slide out following the growth pattern.
- Ideal for airy curtain fringes after a long foiling day.
2. Vertical channel carving
- Take 2 cm vertical panels.
- Angle the chunker so the flat blade hugs the scalp, close once mid-length, then drop out.
- Eliminates shelfing behind the ear without exposing scalp.
3. Brickwork debulking
- Work in alternating horizontal panels.
- Stagger the points where you close to avoid repetitive lines.
- Perfect for thick bobs on humid Brisbane afternoons.
4. Fade blending scoops
- Keep the teeth facing the skin and move with the head shape.
- Short, controlled scoops, checking under bright light or a spotlight phone torch.
- Pair with a 30 tooth thinner to erase clipper lines in under a minute.
5. Curl-respectful weight removal
- Stretch the curl gently, close with a 20 tooth shear 4 cm from the scalp, release.
- Move in the direction the curl wants to live to avoid halos.
Hair type cheat sheet
| Hair type | What to reach for | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|
| Fine, flyaway | 42 tooth thinners, close once and comb through | Too many passes creates fluff and static |
| Medium, straight | 30-32 tooth blender, brickwork through the interior | Keep 2 cm off the perimeter or you will weaken the outline |
| Thick, wavy | 20 tooth texture shear plus finishing blend | Always follow with a lighter shear to polish the surface |
| Coarse curls | 14 tooth chunker + curl stretch method | Work slowly, respect shrinkage, diffuse to check balance |
| Men’s fades | 30 tooth thinner for blending plus 16 tooth chunker at the occipital | Stay under bright light to spot shadows |
Avoid the classic disasters
- Overworking one section: Count your passes. Two snips per panel, then reassess.
- Chomping right on the hairline: Leave at least 2 cm buffer to keep the outline strong.
- Closing near the scalp: Unless you are deliberately creating underlayers, stay 3 cm out to avoid fuzz patches.
- Dirty shears: Product build-up in the teeth equals snagging and frizz. Brush them out between clients.
Two-week control drill
| Day | Focus | What to notice |
|---|---|---|
| 1-3 | Paper strip practice with 30 tooth shear | Only your thumb moves; listen for a soft snip, not a crunch |
| 4-6 | Mannequin blending on wet bob | Check for even removal under salon lights |
| 7-10 | Live model: long layers, low risk client | Take photos before/after to see if the perimeter stayed intact |
| 11-14 | Add chunker work on thick hair | Balance each chunker pass with a 30 tooth clean-up |
Hygiene and maintenance
- Daily: Brush teeth clean, spray with isopropyl alcohol, dry, then add a drop of oil at the pivot.
- Weekly: Tension test—open to 90 degrees, lift the thumb handle, let it fall. Closing two thirds is the sweet spot.
- Sharpening: Book a tech who polishes every tooth individually. Chunkers need attention every 8-10 months in a busy salon, thinners every 10-12.
- Storage: Park them in a padded roll or upright stand with blade guards. Teeth should never rattle around a drawer with clips.
Keep the conversation client-friendly
Clients freak out when they see “the thinning scissors.” Explain what you are doing: “I am just softening the corners so your layers fall flatter between blow-dries.” Transparency builds trust and stops the “please do not thin me out” panic.
Need a tooth count game plan?
Send through your top five services, typical hair textures, and the shears you already own. We will map a tooth combo and technique drill that keeps your cuts sharp and your wrists happy. Ask for a tailored plan.
Photo: Amr Taha via Unsplash