Point cutting separates a blunt bob from a lived-in masterpiece—but only if your blades, angles, and pressure are on point. This guide lays out the tools, setup, and drills that help Aussie stylists create natural texture without murdering the ends.
1. Tool kit essentials
| Tool | Why you need it | Recommended specs |
|---|---|---|
| Convex scissors (5–5.5”) | Precise tip work with minimal drag | Hikari Chikara 5”, Kasho Green 5.5” |
| Sharp tip, slim blade | Easier to slip into tight sections | Joewell FX Pro, Yasaka Classic 5” |
| Secondary detailer | For micro-chipping fringes | 4.5” offset detailers |
| Thinner/chunker | Blend transitions if needed | 30-tooth thinner or 14-tooth chunker |
2. Section prep
- Work on clean, dry hair for visibility and accuracy.
- Section in horizontal or diagonal panels depending on end result (horizontal for softness, diagonal for movement).
- Clip away weight so you can focus on small sections at a time.
3. Technique fundamentals
- Hold scissors perpendicular or slightly angled (45°) to the section.
- Open blades just enough for the desired depth (shallow for end softness, deeper for internal texture).
- Use minimal closing force—let the tips snip, not chew.
- Feather the scissor as you close; a slight outward pull keeps ends soft.
Depth guide
- Shallow (0.5 cm): Softens blunt lines without removing length.
- Medium (1–1.5 cm): Adds movement through mids.
- Deep (2 cm+): Use sparingly for internal weight removal.
4. Common point cutting patterns
| Pattern | Best for | How to do it |
|---|---|---|
| Vertical point | Softening ends on bobs/lobs | Cut perpendicular into the line in quick, even bites |
| Diagonal point | Adding swing around the face | Angle towards the face to create movement |
| Deep internal point | Removing bulk without chunking | Take vertical subsections, go deeper into the mids |
| Slide-point hybrid | Airy layers | Combine shallow slide with a quick point for feathered effect |
5. Mistakes to avoid
| Mistake | Result | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Using dull tips | Frayed, split ends | Sharpen or swap to sharper detailers |
| Random depth | Uneven texture, holes | Plan depth per section; work methodically |
| Over-chopping fine hair | Wispy, thin perimeter | Use micro snips or soften with a thinner instead |
| Point cutting wet hair | Shrinkage surprises | Dry hair gives accurate finish |
6. Finishing moves
- Comb through and assess symmetry. Use a 30-tooth thinner to blend if you see steps.
- Add styling product (sea salt spray, texture cream) to visualise movement.
- Review hair fall on both sides—small tweaks make a big difference.
7. Practice routine (30 minutes)
- Mannequin warm-up: 10 shallow points on a blunt line.
- Depth drills: Alternate shallow/medium/deep along a section, note differences.
- Speed control: Time yourself softening a bob perimeter, aim for consistent rhythm.
- Reflection: Take photos and annotate where you want smoother flow next time.
8. FAQs
What if I point cut on damp hair? You can, but expect shrinkage. Dry is safer for precise lengths.
Do I need different scissors? A slim, sharp tip is key. Heavy 6.5” blades can still work, but detailers reduce fatigue.
How often should I sharpen point-cutting scissors? Because tips do most of the work, monitor them closely. Plan 8–10 month intervals with a convex specialist.
Need a point-cutting game plan?
Share your go-to cuts, current scissors, and any wrist or thumb issues. We’ll recommend the best point-cutting pair and practice drills that match your roster. Request point cutting support and we’ll set you up.