Texturising and thinning shears get lumped together, but they behave very differently. Use the wrong teeth and you can shred curls, create zebra lines, or cut out bulk where a client needs density. This playbook shows you how to choose the right tool—and use it properly—for every Australian hair type.
1. Tool families at a glance
| Shear type | Teeth count | Hair removal | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thinning / blending | 28–40 teeth | 15–30% | Softening lines, fringe blending, fine hair |
| Texturiser / chunker | 10–20 teeth | 30–70% | Removing bulk, dense curls, modern shags |
| Notcher / chunker | 5–10 teeth | 50–80% | Heavy debulking, creating separation |
2. When to reach for thinners
- Blending a bob perimeter after blunt cut.
- Softening clipper lines on fades.
- Removing weight from fringe without losing length.
- Working on finer hair where you need gentle removal.
Technique: Work on dry hair for accuracy. Enter mid-lengths with teeth facing up, close lightly, and comb out hair between passes.
3. When texturising shears shine
- Debulking thick, wavy, or curly hair quickly.
- Creating airy movement in shag or wolf cuts.
- Breaking up bulky layers without adding visual lines.
- Carving out weight from mid-lengths while keeping ends intact.
Technique: Use diagonal or vertical sections, keep passes minimal (two strokes per panel), and profile on dry hair to avoid over-removal.
4. Common mistakes & fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Zebra lines | Closing too hard or repeating passes | Use lighter pressure, blend with thinners |
| Choppy ends on fine hair | Using chunkers where thinners needed | Swap tools, use shallow passes |
| Over-thinned curls | Working too close to roots | Start mid-length and follow curl pattern |
| Holes in fade | Chunker passes too deep | Blend with a 30-tooth thinner afterwards |
5. Tool match-ups for Aussie kits
| Hair type | Desired result | Tool combo |
|---|---|---|
| Fine, straight | Soft edging, no bulk removal | 30–40 tooth thinner (Joewell E30, Kasho 38T) |
| Medium, wavy | Internal movement without holes | 14-tooth chunker (Juntetsu, Hanzo HH29) + 30-tooth thinner |
| Thick, curly | Cut weight fast, keep shape intact | 10-tooth texturiser (Kamisori Kaos, Yasaka chunker) |
| Coarse barber fades | Soften clipper marks | 30-tooth thinner + detailing shear |
6. Maintenance matters
- Clean and oil between every client—hair loves hiding between teeth.
- Sharpen with techs who have tooth-specific jigs; misaligned teeth ruin the tool.
- Track services: chunkers used daily may need sharpening every 9 months; thinners can stretch to 12.
7. Practice drills
- Mannequin mapping: Work on one quadrant with thinners, another with chunkers—note removal differences.
- Pass control: Aim for two passes maximum per section; use a comb to check weight after each pass.
- Curl discipline: Practise on a curly wig, following the curl pattern to prevent gaps.
8. FAQs
Can I use thinners on wet hair? You can, but results are more predictable dry. Wet hair sticks to the teeth and removes more than you expect.
Do I need both thinners and chunkers? Yes. Thinners finish, chunkers remove bulk. Most modern haircuts use both at some stage.
Why do my chunkers snag? Either they’re dull or you’re hitting them at the wrong angle. Sharpen and adjust technique.
Need help building a texture kit?
Tell us your go-to cuts, hair types you see, and existing tools. We’ll suggest the right thinning/texturising pairs and a maintenance cadence. Ask for a texture tool consult and we’ll set you up.